No self-respecting flower child, who backpacked Europe in the late ’60s and early ’70s, would be caught dead on a multi-day coach tour. The memory of the 1969 movie “If It’s Tuesday, It Must Be Belgium” is still all too real. “No way”, they say “That’s not for me”.
Now, all of these baby boomers are in their 50s and 60s. They still feel the charm of traveling around Europe, but how to do it?
Many have discovered what Europeans have known for years, a river cruise is a hassle-free and unregulated form of travel. Travelers’ only job is to store their bags and show up for meals. What could be more easy?
There are numerous options. Short cruises are available from 3 to 6 nights on the Rhine, Rhône, Seine and Danube. The longest cruises range from 7 to 28 nights and will take you from Amsterdam to the Black Sea and almost everywhere in between.
Think of a country in Europe and there is probably a navigable river or canal within its borders. Aside from the obvious programs on the Rhine and Danube, there are Elbe cruises connecting the two hottest cities in Europe: Berlin and Prague.
Portugal, Spain, Hungary and Italy have river cruises. France has 3 major rivers, including the Rhine, Rhone, and Seine, as well as numerous canals running through Burgundy, Provence, the Loire, Alsace, and Aquitaine. There are even canals for barges in England, Scotland, Sweden and Ireland.
The river cruise was starting when those same backpackers were getting their first taste of the mainland. The first river cruisers in Europe were converted cargo barges. But times have changed. Now they are ships, specially designed to move passengers comfortably, offering excellent restaurants, excellent landscapes and interesting ports.
What makes the river cruise so attractive? Unlike ocean cruises, where the ship almost always docks in some awkward or sketchy part of town, a river cruise is more like a nice hotel moving from one central location to another. With very few exceptions, Europe’s major cities grew up around the river and the old town is never more than a short walk from the river’s wharf.
Another attraction of the river cruise is that the journey is as important as the destination. The scenery along the way ranges from pastoral to stunning. Dine or have a drink as you cruise past castles, monasteries, towering cliffs and small villages.
Free time in port is totally flexible. Join one of the excursions (often walking tours of the old town), go out on your own with your guide, enjoy a beer or shop on your own or just stay on the boat and read a book. You are in the heart of the city, so it is easy to disembark after dinner for a walk or in the morning for a run.
The largest river cruise ship holds 200 passengers; the average ship has 70 staterooms that accommodate 140 guests. The barges are more intimate with 3 to 10 cabins. If you’re taking a barge cruise, it’s a good idea to bring your fellow travelers with you. They are ideal for small groups of families and friends.
Virtually all river cruise cabins are open-air, offering large windows to enjoy the scenery and provide plenty of light. Air-conditioned, with TV, radio and hairdryer, they are very pleasant “hotel rooms”. Each cabin has its own facilities including a shower, sink and toilet. They are small but very functional.
The cabins, although comfortable, are not the best places to see the scenery. The cabin only has views to one side and that is only half of the landscape. The living room or terrace are the best places to enjoy the scenery.
Meals are included and arrangements vary by cruise line, but breakfast is usually buffet style. Lunch can be buffet or served. Dinner will be multi-course, but unlike ocean cruises, river cruises aren’t entirely focused on eating every 2 hours.
The guest determines the pace of the cruise. Sit back with a good book on deck, explore every alley in every port of call, or just sit back with a beer at an outdoor cafe.
To get back to exploring Europe without headaches, try a river cruise.